Court Lighting & Fencing Questions

It can, but it costs more. Adding poles after the surface is finished requires cutting into it to set footings, which risks cracking the surface and disrupting drainage channels. Planning lighting before the sub-base is poured avoids that extra excavation and keeps the surface intact.

Chain-link is the most common choice for residential courts because it is durable and low maintenance. Vinyl-coated chain-link adds a cleaner appearance and resists rust longer. The gauge and post depth are specified based on your site conditions and county requirements, not a one-size default.

Setback distances differ by county and by HOA rules. Chesterfield, Henrico, and Goochland each have their own requirements. The correct distance for your specific site is confirmed during the on-site evaluation and written into the estimate before any fence contractor is scheduled.

Yes. All wiring for court lighting must meet the applicable county inspection standard. We arrange local builders who complete the work to code, and the final walkthrough confirms inspection sign-off before the project closes. Skipping this step can create liability issues and complications at resale.

Pole count depends on court size, pole height, and the fixture output needed to hit even lux coverage across the full surface. A typical single-court installation uses four poles, but the layout is calculated for your specific dimensions rather than applied as a standard template.

An unfenced court is a liability risk, and adding fencing later often means working around a finished surface and landscaping. Post holes dug near the court edge can undermine the base if drainage was not designed with fence posts in mind. Scoping fencing at the start avoids both problems.